Installing a WC frame – how to do it properly?

To design an aesthetically pleasing and fully functional bathroom, you need to consider many aspects. Space is one of the most important, as the available area determines the layout and equipment options of any bathroom. So how do you install a concealed WC frame in a bathroom in a way that’s not only correct but also elegant? You’ll find out by reading the text below!

Enclosing a concealed in‑wall frame – what you need to know

A concealed in‑wall frame is essentially a metal frame that serves as the substructure behind the ceramic tiles. With such a frame you can enclose not only the WC, but also a basin and even a bidet. These frames are primarily about aesthetics, but a good concealed WC frame can often double as a shelf, provided the design allows for it.

Boxing in the WC frame lets you hide elements in the bathroom that may detract from the overall look. Few people are unfazed by protruding pipes or a visible toilet cistern. It’s worth concealing them using a frame. How do you box in a WC frame?

Enclosing a concealed WC should be done in stages. The order of work matters for correct installation and later use (especially if it’s also going to serve as a shelf).

How to box in a concealed WC – choosing the frame

There are two main groups of concealed in‑wall frames on the market. The first are kits for so‑called wet installation. They’re used with masonry walls and also require masonry casing, so their installation is noticeably more time‑consuming than the so‑called dry‑installation kits.

The latter go in much quicker. Note that these frames can be used with both masonry walls and plasterboard stud walls. Concealed frame kits are further divided into more specific categories.

We can distinguish low‑height frames, full‑height frames, and self‑supporting frames. Low frames are ideal mainly for WCs; the tall ones are more often used for basins, though they also frequently enclose toilet pans. The last type is suited to atypical ceramic tiles that are larger and heavier, so they need a reinforced frame profile that can take the load.

Bear in mind that concealed frames also come with other, no less important parameters. Before choosing, decide what cistern capacity you want (typically six litres, though there are dual‑flush and water‑saving systems), match the flush plate to the frame’s design (flush plates are seldom included with the frame and must be chosen separately), and determine the frame depth.

Concealed frame – installation

The first and most important step is choosing where to install the frame. Wet‑installation frame kits are used right at the start, not so much of the bathroom fit‑out as of the build itself, in new houses or apartments. The frame and cistern should be screwed to the wall, and the water tank connected to the water supply. The frame and WC pan are joined with special bolts and secured with nuts to stabilise the structure. The final stage is to brick the frame in.

A dry‑installation frame is a better choice for a smaller bathroom, and it’s fixed to the wall not only with screws but also with expansion plugs. The wall‑hung pan is mounted on bolts, with securing similar to wet‑installation kits. The difference is that the frame is enclosed with plasterboard rather than being bricked in.

Setting the installation height of the frame is also very important, because a kit without adjustable connections won’t allow later corrections. Particular care must be taken to connect the cistern properly to the water supply. Use metal or plastic pipes for this. Rubber hoses with a metal braid are not permitted.

The final stage is to ensure the waste outlet is free‑flowing. The WC drainage must be optimal; otherwise there may be problems with proper waste removal. Installing a WC frame isn’t the easiest job, especially the wet‑installation kits. Have you the experience and knowledge to do it yourself? Go for it. Otherwise, trust the professionals.